Outings and excursions · Montevideo

Candombe: the drums of Montevideo

Photos: Jimmy Baikovicius / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2009, candombe beats in the streets of the Sur, Palermo and Cordón neighbourhoods.

Photo: Jimmy Baikovicius, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Candombe is Uruguay's music and celebration of African roots. Passed down through generations in Afro-Uruguayan families, it is at once an expression of resistance, a party and a community practice. In 2009 UNESCO inscribed it on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

The llamadas

On Sundays and many holidays, the drum calls (llamadas) move through the Sur, Palermo and Cordón neighbourhoods in southern Montevideo. It all begins around a fire where the drums are tuned; then the group (cuerda) takes to the street, led by drummers from the most respected families, while neighbours and dancers walk alongside or watch from balconies.

The three drums

  • Chico: the smallest and highest, keeps time.
  • Repique: the medium one, improvises and converses.
  • Piano: the largest and deepest; its beat identifies each neighbourhood.

How to experience it

Hearing a drum group on a Sunday afternoon in Barrio Sur or Palermo is one of the city's most authentic experiences. During carnival, the Desfile de Llamadas brings the comparsas together in a great parade.

Tips

  • Follow from the pavement and respect the group's route.
  • Dates for the Desfile de Llamadas are announced each year: check before you travel.

Plan your trip

See alsoHotels and lodging in Montevideo

Outings in Montevideo

Montevideo in 48 hours Ciudad Vieja, Plaza Independencia, the Mercado del Puerto and the rambla: a two-day plan to get to know Uruguay's capital. Read more A Matter of Promenades Some people talk about piers, waterfronts or the coastline. In Montevideo, all these sites are referred to as promenades. There are so many and they … Read more The Great Classic of Uruguayan Cuisine: chivito This dish is the pride of the Uruguayan people, not only in the country but all round the world. We give you: the Uruguayan chivito. Read more The Port Market Visiting this place is fascinating. Behind its porticos, each stall display delicious meat, achuras and pamplonas. Outside, candombe and handicrafts.… Read more El Milongón At the heart of Old Montevideo tourists can enjoy a dinner theater with an important display of music and choreography of candombe, tango, milonga an… Read more Between the Past and the Present We toured around the Old City and we saw the origins of Montevideo. A walk into the past in which the political and economic center of the country ca… Read more Brothers of Mate Uruguay has a tradition practiced by all its citizens: drinking mate. This article is addressed to all those who wish to learn about the history of y… Read more Honoring Artigas In the middle of Independence Square is the mausoleum of General Jose Artigas. Inside, the most important events of the Father of the Uruguayan natio… Read more Carnival All Year Round The Carnival Museum is opposite the port of Montevideo. It is an interesting way of understanding the feeling of this festival that managed to join d… Read more Keep on Dancing! Las Llamadas (the Calls) are the largest popular celebrations in Uruguay. Every year in February, Montevideo is ornamented for candombe and comparsas… Read more

Hotels and lodging in Montevideo